Spring is Here!

Did you know peas are actually a fruit? If you’ve ever eaten a freshly picked raw green pea, then you’ll agree they are a fruit of the vine!

Peas were greatly popular in 17th Century England-the home of the unfortunate "mushy peas" served with fish and chips. Thankfully, they also discovered that fresh spring peas tasted wonderful all by themselves, and early settlers brought them to America! So entranced by peas was Thomas Jefferson, that he reportedly grew more than 30 different types of peas at Monticello. The humble pea has made its way into almost every cuisine around the world.

As we continue our year-long series on seasonal and regional foods, California sugar snap and snow peas are foods you should look for at farmers’ markets. In California, pod peas are grown year-round in the milder climate zones and in the cool spring and fall periods of the inland.

From a cost and nutrition standpoint, peas are the ultimate bargain! Cheap and packed full of fiber and protein, peas are low in calorie and high in calcium, iron and lysine. Dried and ground, they can offer an alternative flour for those who need a gluten-free diet. Frozen, canned, fresh or dried, peas are readily available in any market, too. The green, yellow, red or orange varieties add great color to a dish, and can be fried, steamed or stewed.

But, perhaps even better, peas are delicious.

Split Pea Soup

Almost every Californian will remember Andersen’s and the familiar windmill restaurant in the Santa Ynez Valley that became known as "the home of split pea soup". Still operating today, Andersen’s goes through tons of dried, split peas every month. It’s easy to make split pea soup at home, too!

Using two cups of dried split peas-any color-add eight cups of cold water, and finely minced celery stalk, carrot and sweet onion, along with one bay leaf, a pinch of thyme, a few shakes of dried red pepper and a few grinds of black pepper. Add a smoked ham bock or a high quality, smoked bacon to the pot. This is an ideal soup to do in a slow cooker all day, although you can make this on the stovetop by bringing to a boil and then simmering until all the ingredients are thoroughly tender.

Remove the ham hock or any big pieces of bacon. Using an immersion blender, add a dollop of sweet butter and some cream, to taste and until you get the soupy texture you want. Scrape off any bits of meat from the ham hock and add them back to the pot. Even those who profess to hate peas will love this version of split pea soup!

Fresh Peas

Fresh California sugar snap peas are best prepared simply to allow their sweet flavor to come through. Look for certified organic sugar snap peas, which are "stringless" and don’t require you to remove the ends. It’s best to prepare them the same day you purchase the peas, leaving them at room temperature until you’re ready to cook. The trick is to never overcook fresh peas!

Wash in cold water, and then spread the sugar snap peas on a baking sheet. Drizzle with a little olive oil, and add finely minced shallots, fresh chopped thyme and a few generous grinds or pinches of sea salt. Toss and spread across the baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 450-degree oven for six to eight minutes. The peas will still be crisp, but tender and flavorful.

Snow peas are delicious raw, and require very little cooking also. Just wash and clean off any end pieces. You can add snow peas as a last minute addition to pastas and soups.

The classic pasta carbonara, requires tender green peas, or it’s simply not done! Start with a dash of olive oil and six ounces of pancetta cut into quarter-inch cubes. Heat this in a frying pan until the pancetta is browned and the pan has a generous amount of drippings. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for a pound of linguine and cook that to al dente, reserving a little of the pasta water. Beat together in a bowl three whole eggs and two egg yolks with a half cup grated Pecorino Romano and a quarter cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses.

Add the cooked, drained and still hot linguine to the skillet with the hot pancetta, and stir in the egg and cheese mixture. Add a little of the pasta water until there is a creamy consistency, and then add the peas. The traditional dish uses green peas, but why not try this with blanched snow peas?

Snow peas also are perfect for a quick stir fry! Alongside or mixed into a stir fry of chicken or beef, add snow peas. Heat a little olive oil in a pan or wok; add the snow peas, pine nuts, a little minced garlic, fresh mint leaves, and a dash of dark sesame oil. After a minute, quickly toss in the chicken or beef and plate for a simple and fresh tasting dish.

If you want to make this a vegetarian dish, replace the meat with cubes of stir fried tofu-the combination of creamy tofu and crunchy peas is great with steamed rice. If you want a slightly different Asian flavor, then add a couple teaspoons of oyster sauce and fish sauce, maybe with a spoonful of chili sauce.

Once you start looking, you’ll find peas lend themselves to Indian curries, Italian pastas, savory American beef stews, and Chinese stir fries. Let’s give peas a chance, from my kitchen to yours!

FRESH PEA SOUP TWO WAYS

These two soups are both scrumptious served either hot or cold. The first is made without any cream, leaving it light and fresh and reasonably low in calories. The second recipe incorporates cream or yogurt, your choice, and fresh mint from the garden, a perfect accompaniment to peas.

CREAMLESS FRESH PEA SOUP

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 3 cups low-sodium canned chicken broth
• 3 cups shucked fresh English peas
• 1 cup fresh baby spinach leaves
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, kept cold and cut
• into pieces
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Heat the oil in a medium-sized pot. Add the onion and sauté over medium-low heat, until tender but not golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and season to taste with salt and pepper. Sauté 1 minute more. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Add the peas and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the spinach and cook one minute more. Immediately puree the soup until smooth, using a hand blender, or in batches in the blender. Return the hot soup to the pot and add the butter, whisking to incorporate. Adjust the seasoning and enjoy hot or cold.

MINTED PEA SOUP

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 small yellow onion, diced
• 3 cups shucked fresh English peas
• 3 cups low-sodium canned chicken broth
• 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves
• 1 cup heavy cream (or plain yogurt, or a combination
• of the two)
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Heat the butter and oil in a medium-sized pot. Add the onion and sauté over medium-low heat, until tender but not golden, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sauté 1 minute more. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Add the peas and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the mint leaves and cook one minute more. Immediately puree the soup until smooth, using a hand blender, or in batches in the blender. Return the hot soup to the pot, off the heat, and add the cream (or cream-yogurt mixture) and adjust the seasoning. If serving the soup cold, chill, covered. If serving the soup hot, reheat but do not let boil.